The Philippine Terno Gala 2025
TERNO
The Philippine
2025
GALA
High Glam in Cebu
30 August 2025
Photos: MARK PHILIP DALES
CEBU CITY—As promised by Cary Santiago, the country’s finest couturier, the second staging of The Philippine Terno Gala was a spectacle worthy of the Queen City of the South. Held on June 28, some of the country’s most fashionable descended on the Pacific Grand Ballroom of the Waterfront Hotel and Casino.
“I’m incredibly grateful for the support of my Mesdames and the Cebu City Tourism Commission, led by City Councilor Joy Pesquera,” says Santiago in a Facebook post, adding: “A huge thank you to the Cultural Center of the Philippines president Madam Kaye Tinga and the CCP directors.”
Directed by Junjet Primor, the gala had Santiago’s high-profile muses as sponsors: Bea Zobel de Ayala Jr., Alice Eduardo, Mariquita Yeung, Maybelle Padillo, Dawn Zulueta-Lagdameo, Yedda Romualdez, Jen Villoria, and Marylou Ngo Ang.
“[This] event is more than a showcase of exquisite fashion. It is a tribute to our identity and our history. To the timeless silhouette of the terno and the Filipino pride it represents. We are especially honored that this meaningful occasion is the brainchild of none other than Cary Santiago, a globally celebrated designer whose roots and heart remain firmly planted in Cebu. Cary, your vision continues to elevate not only our local fashion industry but also the cultural landscape of our city,” said Atty. Jocelyn Pesquera, the head of the Cebu City Tourism Commission, in her welcome speech.
“Together, we are proudly celebrating Cebu as the design capital of the Philippines. A distinction reinforced when Unesco designated Cebu City as a Creative City of Design in 2019. That recognition wasn’t simply a label,” continued Pesquera. “It was a call to action. And tonight, we answer that call. This celebration would not have been possible without the unwavering support of our city’s leadership.”
Cary led the world-class pack of acclaimed designers in this year’s gala, enlisting his fellow Cebuanos Edwin Ao, Protacio Empaces and Jun Escario, and Manila’s Joey Samson and Jojie Lloren.
“You cannot say no to Cary. Aside from doing a show with the designers you admire and respect so much, it’s also my little way of aligning with the idea of preserving the terno,” Edwin, also an accomplished visual artist and art educator, declared.
Protacio, fond of the glamorous past, pointed out: “I’ve always loved to express my aesthetics through the execution of the terno. For someone like me who loves to take references from the past, this is the perfect venue for me.”
“It was an easy yes to do the Terno Gala, as it was also a challenge for me to put out my version of Filipino dressing/terno,” Jun, a high-society darling, joined in.
The designers share their thoughts and creative process:
CLICK the photo to view the FULL image.
AN artist of audacity, Ao dared to tread into unknown territory: “I wanted to do something I haven’t done before, the colors that I am afraid of: white and red.
“My collection begins where most fashion ends: beneath the surface. An inspection by the layered architecture of the dermis, each look peels back the boundaries between skin and fabric, biology and design. Like an artist’s sketch dissecting flesh, the garments unfold in strata—each layer revealing tension, fragility, and strength.
“Translucent silks trace the flow of capillaries. Raw edges mimic connective tissue. Seam work mimics sutures—deliberate, visceral, human. What begins as anatomical transforms into garments interpreted in the Philippine terno. The body is not simply dressed—it is decoded.”
“The idea of the collection is an inspection of layers. It is a study of layering, repetition, and motion—an unraveling process both literal and conceptual. I chose to marry art practices with the design process to craft my interpretation of the Philippine terno.
“I explored the idea of fear through color, specifically by confronting colors I have long avoided. Red and white became emotional provocations, pushing me to step outside my comfort zone and embrace vulnerability in the creative act.
“A men’s tunic barong Tagalog in piña is overlaid with DMC threads, it is worn over an inner shirt reimagined with alternative proportions. A deconstructed linen vest—detailed with leather scraps, and bound by DMC silk threads—completes the look, suggesting disassembly as a form of design.”
AO
EDWIN
EMPACES was enamored with the Masters of Philippine Fashion. His pieces showcased his expertise in injecting nostalgic references with his own contemporary takes.
Known for injecting wit into his creations, Empaces once again showcased his unbridled love for embroideries: “I firmly believe that the terno has been perfected during the time of Ramon Valera, Salvacion Lim and Joe Salazar. I worked around that vibe but innovated it to modern-day function.
He used varied fabrics from silk dupioni to abaca, linen, cotton, tulle and gazar. It’s always a joy to witness Protacio’s witty creations: a mango-colored bubble dress, an embroidered skirt with an Art Deco theme, pixelated embroideries with big floral patterns worn by Ann Umali, a baby-doll dress with a full cutout embroidered skirt worn by Mikay Bautista, and an indio-inspired pantsuit with the pants embroidered with seashell motif.
EMPACES
PROTACIO
ESCARIO
JUN
IN designing a collection inspired by the terno and traditional Filipino attire, Escario wanted to move away from the usual perception of it being stiff, outdated or costume-like. He focused on softening the look—bringing a sense of ease, fluidity and modernity.
It’s what he called a chill, relaxed collection: “It is elevated Filipiniana for the modern woman. It’s a very cosmopolitan version of the Filipino way of dressing. Silks paired with piña, pantsuit with a one-sided sleeve. Very luxe, chic, modern version of the baro’t saya. Tones are muted in taupe, beige, greige, blush.
I also reinvented the terno sleeve into a cape. The terno has been reimagined in many ways—resized sleeves, altered shapes—but I believe its iconic form doesn’t need to be changed. Instead, it simply needs to be recontextualized. By lightening the embroidery, refining the details, and removing the visual weight, it can speak to a global audience in a more contemporary way.
“I chose to pair local weaves with the softest silks and flat sandals, creating an effortless elegance. The result is a more relaxed, wearable version of the traditional look, something women can feel comfortable in whether dressed up or down.
“Given our climate, clothing should feel light, both on the skin and to the eye. The palette leans into subtle, sophisticated tones: beiges, grays, taupes. And above all, I never design a collection unless it feels refined, timeless and undeniably chic.”
LLOREN
JOJIE
THOUGH quite busy enlisting students to his one-year comprehensive program at his fashion school, the F.A.B. Creatives, where he teaches pattern-making, terno sleeve-making and draping, Jojie still finds fulfillment in joining fashion shows.
He was part of TernoCon 2024 at the Museo del Galeón, SM Mall of Asia, a project that was part of the #LoveLocal campaign of Bench, and the CCP. Together with Cary and Jaggy Glarino, Jojie presented a collection titled “Lullaby for My Mother”—an emotional tribute to his recently departed beloved mother as well as his homage to the Motherland. GMA actress-host Maine Mendoza served as his finale muse.
What made him say yes to participate in TernoCon 2024?
“Cary. A designer I admire and respect so much. He doesn’t fail to amaze me with his pieces,” says Lloren, a reply he would surely repeat as to why he is also part of the Terno Gala.
In “Melancholia,” his collection for the Terno Gala, Jojie made sense of grief by transforming it into something elegant and glamorous. This is one of the creative and vulnerable ways of mourning he unveiled at TernoCon 2024.
“This collection is a tribute to cherished memories with my mother, an expression of joy tinged with the quiet ache of loss. It also reflects on the terno as a symbol of the modern Filipina, capturing her grace, tenderness, quiet resilience, and enduring strength.”
SAMSON
JOEY
AS a mentor during TernoCon 2023, Joey showcased a collection called “Ang Mga Pag-ibig ni Jose Rizal,” a tribute to our National Hero, at the CCP Tanghalang Ignacio Jimenez.
At the Terno Gala, his collection took its cue from the tuxedo.
“I utilized the language of menswear to interpret looks with interchanging/mixing elements of the terno, barong Tagalog and the tuxedo at the same time while keeping traditional Filipino elements such as the panuelo, alampay and tapis done in a nontraditional manner,” he said.
Joey collaborated with the highly creative Ricky Vicencio for some of the accessories in the collection, which is a further exploration of the themes he evoked at TernoCon 2023 and at Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week in 2023.
“I focused on the tuxedo but reimagined it using elements from the terno and the barong Tagalog. What I did was to mix and interchange elements from these specific garments to come up with new propositions for the terno and barong Tagalog.”
SANTIAGO
CARY
Of late, Cary has shown his dynamism as a producer. After the epic and now mythical World CLASS show (Cinco, Michael; Libiran, Francis; Amato Couture by Furne One; Santos, Ezra; and Santiago, Cary), he also produced the first Terno Gala in 2023; and Furne One’s homecoming gala, Weddings at the Waterfront: Panaad, and Queen Philippines pageant in 2024.
“There are a lot of designers in Cebu, even if we’re just an island. So that’s why, being a Cebuano myself, all I can do is give back to the community,” he said.
So that’s the reason for me [why I produce shows],” said Cary, during our chitchat after the Panaad show last year. “And because Manila is embracing me, I also include designers from Manila. You know, it’s a cycle. When you receive, you give. It’s like a circle.”
The design community in Cebu is small. So, Cary doesn’t want the same designers to be in the lineup every year.
“That’s why we invite designers from Manila. And most of the time with the madams in Cebu, they’re eager to attend when they know the designer. They want to attend because they’re familiar with the works of the designers,” Cary shared.
“That’s why every year, I make sure that I invite designers that are already either seasoned or kind of upcoming that their works have become familiar to the fashionistas of Cebu.”
For this year’s Terno Gala, Cary explored plumage using a novel technique, combining his fascination with soft sculpture and his favorite colors. Almost everything is handmade and hand-stitched.
The beloved designer expressed his glee and gratitude:
“After the highly successful biennial event The Philippine Terno Gala 2025, allow me to extend my thanks and heartfelt gratitude to everyone who made it all happen.
“To the Cebu City Government thru the Cebu City Tourism Commission and all the commissioners headed by Pesquera; to Waterfront Cebu City Hotel and Casino headed by general manager Ali Banting and conventions and events director Feirlyn Decasa; to the Cultural Center of the Philippines with president Kaye Tinga, our major sponsons, such as Ali Agri Exim, Dr. CRB, Cary Santiago by Bench Perfumes headed by Ben Chan, and to Jennifer Ty of Diagold—thank you so much!
“To my beloved mesdames—Bea Zobel de Ayala Jr, Alice Eduardo, Mariquita Yeung, Yedda Romualdez, Jennifer Viloria, Katrina Ponce-Enrile, Marylou Ngo Ang, Maybelle Padillo, Jessie Maloles, Mags Cue and Dawn Zulueta-Lagdameo—thank you very much!
“To all the designers: Edwin Ao, those were very intricate pieces that I cannot do; Jojie Lloren, for the period glam classic pieces; Joey Samson, for the beautifully textured and layered pieces; Jun Escario, for the very chic and sophisticated looks; and Protacio, witty looks and feels from works of the Masters. Thank you kaayo!”